Idea progression

Having felt that i had hit i brick wall and i was confused how i could progress me design and idea process i talked to Seema. I found that i gained a better understanding in the direction that i want to be heading and how i can achieve a set of designs that i am happy with.

• Who is the pin up girl to me!? 
• Who do you see in this shoot? Why?
• Shape exaggerate it
• Layered of thin lace interwinding into and using the hair 
• Hair back comb and straighten into a sheet like effect 
• Create an idea of the 40's 50's think of this is silhouette terms 

I feel that i am inspired to look more at texture within the ideas of using black lace as a symbol from the Pin Up cultures the provocative, sexual nature of lace interwinding with the feminine, powerful woman elements. I want to experiment creating lace like texture with hair and how i can incorporate this into a design that is reminiscent of the Pin Up culture. 

Wig Application

Depending on the size and the style of the wig the preparation varies.

-Hair Wraps: Smooth and flat wigs 

-Flat Plaits ( french plaits): Smooth wigs with less movement involved. 

-Flat Pin Curls: Voluminous wigs, very secure! fine for theatre in film can sometimes see the bumps. 

-Inverted Plaits: very secure, for large sculptured wigs. 

Prepare the hair to represent the style of the wig that will sit on top, for example: if the wig is a 20's bob and finger wave pin curl the bottom section so the wig sits out and wrap the top section. 

Make sure you create hair charts that show how you will do the wig preparation.

Adapt the preparation depending on the wig style, hair type, security, quick changes and what they are actually doing. 

With the stocking cap make sure it matches the root of the wig you will be using! 

Pins/Grips/Geishas 

Pins need to be hidden and taken out after stocking cap applied as not to create bumps. 

Mat pins should be used so that they are hidden also.

-Preparation: Mat flat grips 

-Wig cap- fine wig pins. 

-Wig to the head- Wiggly larger pins 

-Big Wigs & Hair preparation: Geisha pins. 

Avoid pins with bobbled ends as these won't go though the wig cap and don't use thick pins around the edges as these show. 

Hairlines

-Tailor made wigs: fully cover the head 

-Half hair: own hair 

-Hard edge wigs: use own hair 

can always use a paint or illustrator pen to blend in the hair to the wig. 

Pin Directions 

Hair Wrap 

Step 1: section the hair from behind the ears so just the back is sectioned off begin to section pull and wrap the hair around the head. 

Step 2: Repeat this over and over pulling tight until whole head is done, can use water to hold hair into place. Think about the parting of the wig always put the wig on an measure the parting match the hair wrap to the same as the parting this will allow the wig to sit properly.

Step 3: using a wire hair tooth brush and hair spray make sure all loose hairs are brushed and tucked back. Contain it!- Wig cap pull over the head getting the model to help and pull right over can then adjust the cap to the place you need it. 

Step 4: using fine pins, pin the cap into place to make sure it dose not slip pin horizontally in the opposite direction. across the head. 

Step 5: Wig application hold the parts of the wig that go over the ears and pull over, create anchor points with larger wiggly pins and pin horizontally into place making sure you pin into a pin thats already there to give security. 

Half Wig Preparation 

Step 1: section the middle part of the hair where the wig will sit, get someone to hold this out the way and pin curl the surrounding hair out of the way.

Step 2: Creating inverted plaits, plait the middle section of hair around the head into a circle. pin this into place securely. 

Step 3: apply wig cap and pin into place , pinning out the way any excess material, apply the wig and pin into place again using the plait and pins as an anchor point. 

Step 4: either having the hair styled already of styling the hair incorporate the models hair into the wig and create a style making sure all the edges are covered. 

Pin Up Accessorise Fringe

 Within this lesson we were to create a fringe using random accessorise that we had collected from around the house and create a fringe in the style from our culture and the hair style around the fringe also from our cultures. We created pin curls at the base of the head to attach our accessorise onto.

I was pleased with my final out come although i feel that the fringe could have sat flatter onto the head i could have easterly fixed this by getting some see through thin string and pulling the accessorise down and fastening at the back. I liked the colour combination i felt that the blue within the hair contrasted well with the colours used in the accessorises.

Lottie Rollers & Wigs

Elements involved in Wigs for both theatre, film and fashion: 

• Galloon- ribbon that is pinned onto the lace of the wig to hold in place
• Postiche Pins- to pin to hold the lace
• T pins- pins with a T shape at the end used to secure the wig onto the block for styling. 
• Scene- is the term used to explain to plot in a theatre production allows you to know what point you are at in the production. 
• Clean film- placed under the wig to protect against water and to write the name and scene on, so each wig is clear. 
• Wig oven- a hot oven that is used to style and set styles into the wigs 
• Wig net- nets used to protect the hair from blowing around in the wig oven. 
• Wooden rollers- wooden rollers are used so they don't melt in the wig oven. 

Within this lesson we were taught how to handle and style wigs. looking mainly at the technique of wooden rollers. 

Step 1: 

Brush out the wig throughly before starting and secure with the pastiche pins and galloon onto the block, use T pins if you feel it moves around when brushing out the hair. 

Step 2: 

Starting from the bottom section off a small amount of hair enough for the size of the rollers, place the roller at the end and twist up in the direction you want the curl to sit. (you can either do this wet or dry if wet spray the hair and brush through before roller application.) 

Step 3: 

Using your pin tail comb you can feed the hair underneath and tuck in to make sure that tension is held throughout the rolling to create a smooth curl. Pin the roller on top of this section and T pin into place. 

Step 4: 

Repeat this over the whole head and when finished put on the Wig net ready for the Wig oven. 

Having never used rollers before i found it a little hard but once i got the hang of the technique i found it was quick and an easy way to curl a wig. I enjoyed working with the wigs i found that they were very similar to working on a real head of hair, The wig that i was working on was very long and had a slightly frizzy texture i found this made working on the hair a little harder.  

Development of the Pin Up

Johns, M. (no date) Pintrest. Available at: http://uk.pinterest.com/milliejohns/pin-up/ (Accessed: 2 December 2014).

I wanted to explore further the ideas i had explored previously when looking at the key words from the Pin Up culture, i wanted to explore the ideas of lace and flowers the image from my mood board inspired me as i felt that incorporating elements that represent what the Pin Up culture expresses such as being provocative yet feminine i feel lace is a symbol for this, lace is seen often in lingerine the colour changing the style of the lingerie black and darker colour often being more provocative than pastel feminine colours.
I would like to explore the idea of using black lace, print or the idea of a covering lace over the top of a classic 1940's or 50's style often worn by the Pin Up girls.

I have created a few hair charts to explore the idea that i have looked at above, i like the simplicity of the idea of the black lace representing the provocative nature and femininity of the Pin Up culture but i would like to develop more the structure of the styles. I like this idea but i feel that i can push my ideas further to create something exciting, i find these designs are still the classic hair styles with elements added and i would like to push myself further, i will develop and play with my ideas but looking more into the hair itself.

Pin Up Culture Key words

Femininity 

Female Identity

Perfection 

Provocative 

Male Environment 

Patriots 

The key words above represent the Pin Up culture i now want to develop these key words into hair designs creating mood board inspiration boards in relation to these words. Although the Pin Up era was created in the 40's and 50's i would like to see how i can incorporate the values of the culture into an original hair design. 

When looking on Pintrest i collected the images above i was interested trying not to find images that were Pin Up styled as i wanted to get images that expresses the key words. I am interested by the use of lace and flowers. The see through black lace i feel explores the male environment and provocative side but also portrays the femininity and female identity along with the image of the lace projected lighting on the nude body. 

Johns, M. (no date) Pintrest. Available at: http://uk.pinterest.com/milliejohns/pin-up/ (Accessed: 2 December 2014).

The Modern Pin Up

Pin up as a culture still inspires and influences women in modern day society as well as the modern day 'celebritys' many contemporary music artists have used inspiration from this time era 1940's and 50's and the pin up culture within there own work. Below are a few music videos that take inspiration from the pin up girls style.
Each video wether it be inspired by the hair such as in Katy Perry's video clearly taking inspiration from Bettie Pages short box fringe and loose hair or Beyonce's video enrapturing the ideal woman trying to be perfect and glamorous for a man to Lana del Rey whom uses the pin up girl as inspiration for the lyrics to her song. The era is still so predominate today this may be because it changed that way women were viewed and celebrated female identity in a male run world, from the pin up illustrations to the real pin up girls of the 1940's and 50's to today the visual encompasses femininity and perfection.

Dita Von Teese a famous burlesque dancer model and occasional actress has used the pin up look to create herself and is now referred to as the modern day pin up girl. Dita grew up looking at her fathers Playboy magazines were many of the original Pin up models featured and from there began her love for lingerie, this is were her career began in lingerie modelling, Dita has never had a stylists and took inspiration for her style by icons such as Isabella Blow whom is the muse for famous hat designer Philip Tracey. 

It’s Dita Von Teese! (no date). Dita Von Teese! Sexy Burlesque dancer & the most famous Pin Up of our time. Available at: http://www.pinuppassion.com/Dita-Von-Teese.html (Accessed: 22 October 2014).

 & The Pin Up 

The original mens magazine Playboy set up by American Hugh Hefner the first magazine was published in 1953 featuring Marilyn Monroe and sold over 50,000 copies. Playboy is still as popular today as in the 50's and is know as one of the main adult entertainment magazines in the world.

Playboy featured many of the original Pin Up idols of the 50's within there centre folds including Marilyn Monroe in 1953, Jayne Mansfield  and Bettie Page in 1955. 

blogneverever.pl (no date). blogneverever.pl. Available at: http://blogneverever.pl/2014/04/ (Accessed: 20 October 2014).

(no date f). Error - ALAFOTO GALLERY. Available at: http://alafoto.com/listing/displayimage.php?album=329 (Accessed: 20 October 2014).

Playboy have further featured many of todays celebrities within there centrefolds and front covers including Dita Von Teese and top world model Kate Moss among just a few. 

(no date g). Dita Von Teese’s Playboy Cover. Available at: http://yasfx.buzznet.com/photos/theevolutionofditavonteese/?id=63758041 (Accessed: 22 October 2014).

mcyrusnet (no date). mcyrusnet. Available at: http://mcyrusnet.blogspot.co.uk/2012/08/dita-von-teese-csi-burlesque-dancer-nude.html?zx=e81da2f5f42914df (Accessed: 22 October 2014).

Blog (no date). ‘Playboy’ kicks off 60th anniversary with Kate Moss. Available at: https://shootthecenterfold.com/playboy-kicks-off-60th-anniversary-with-kate-moss/ (Accessed: 22 October 2014).

I Feel the Ideals of the Pin Up haven't changed from looking at Playboys centre folds and covers from the 50's showing the celebrities of there time to now showing the 2014 cover featuring Kate Moss the ethos of the perfect woman is the same. These images are presented for and to men a key element in the ideal of the Pin Up girl the original illustrations of Pin Up Girls were mainly drawn by men. 

These models have just replicated this looking a feminine way to impress a man although Pin Up is still so predominate today this may be because it changed that way women were viewed and celebrated female identity in a male run world, from the pin up illustrations to the real pin up girls of the 1940's and 50's to todays celebrity pin ups the visual for these women encompass femininity and perfection in a way giving them power over a man, appealing to men though the way they look actually put the Pin Up Girls in the spot light. 

Further Research

The Movie below featuring Bettie Grable a Pin Up star of the 1940's to me explores the ideas of the Pin Up girl i feel after watching parts of this i can get a feel for the era and how these Pin Up's effected the spirits within the war. The Pin Up girl was a way in the WW2 for people to forget about what was happening in a time of depression and war they could look up to these beautiful illustrations and Movie Star's using them as an escapsium. A lot of Pin Up illustrations were painted onto fighter planes in the war this was to keep the moral high in the troops fighting for there country. 

Within this film Bettie Grable's hair was very intricate i found this inspiring many pin up images have the classic 1940's 50's bouncy waves or curls either with victory roles ect i found this inspiring that the hair was so detailed. It made me think of the roses from my idea development creating hair roses in place of these pin curls could be very effective. 

Classic Hair of the 40's & 50's 

'Throughout the decade, hair was generally between just below shoulder length or shorter to keep out of the way of the machinery as in this time women worked as part of the war effort. Hair was cut with a rounded U-shape at the back, curving up towards the ears, and most  haircuts had lots of layers these were needed to create the styles. If there was a parting, hair was generally parted to one side.Whatever the hairstyle a woman chose, hair was worn feminine and soft, and always dressed off the face.

For factory and farm work, longer hair would often be set and left in pin curls under a headscarf/turban or, for less dangerous work, the back could be secured in a snood with the front waved or pinned off the face. This kept the hair protected and away from machinery. It was then easily let down, spruced up and dressed for a night out.Women in the armed services had to keep their hair above their collar while on duty.

Women’s 1940s Hairstyles: An Overview (no date). Women’s 1940s Hairstyles: An Overview - HAIR AND MAKEUP ARTIST HANDBOOK. Available at: http://hair-and-makeup-artist.com/womens-1940s-hairstyles/ (Accessed: 20 October 2014).

Pictures in magazines showed very groomed and sleek film stars. Everyday working-class women would not have the time, money or personal hairstylist to spend on looking immaculate, especially during the war years, but their hair still followed the overall look and fashion of the decade, this explores how the Pin Up girls would be portrayed to these working class women, using them as inspiration and idols for there appearance.

Waves and curls were always part of the look they were always very soft and if a woman had straight her she would often get it permed. Rolls another element in1940s and an essential part of defining the decade’s look. Rolls were a totally flexible element of a hairstyle – women could shape and position rolls as they wanted. The hair could be brushed smooth or it could have waves. Rolls could be situated on the top of the head, at the sides, coming back from the forehead or along the back. Side rolls could be positioned wherever. They could be symmetrical on each side of the face, or not symmetrical at all, or there could be just one roll.'

-Women’s 1940s Hairstyles: An Overview (no date). Women’s 1940s Hairstyles: An Overview - HAIR AND MAKEUP ARTIST HANDBOOK. Available at: http://hair-and-makeup-artist.com/womens-1940s-hairstyles/ (Accessed: 20 October 2014).

Mass media played a huge part within fashion in the 50's magazines, advertisements and television all played a part in the trademark looks that were popular in the 50's. Hair was similarly worn in the 50's as in the 40's popular styles were, the pageboy bob a bob that was brushed under and sleek with a few waves at the front of the style, often worn by Marilyn. Longer hair was coming into fashion by the 50's and  worn by teenagers in a pony tail, shorter fringes further became popular influenced by icons such as Bettie Page. 

404 Not Found (no date). 404 Not Found. Available at: http://www.fanpop.com/clubs/pin-up-girls/images/5444093/title/gil-elvgren-pin-up-photo (Accessed: 20 October 2014).

Marilyn Monroe (1926–1962) (no date). Marilyn Monroe - IMDb. Available at: http://www.imdb.com/name/nm0000054/ (Accessed: 20 October 2014).

The Pin Up Girl

The Great American Pin-Up (no date). The Great American Pin-Up. TASCHEN Books (Jumbo). Available at: http://www.taschen.com/pages/en/catalogue/popculture/all/44942/facts.the_great_american_pin_up.htm (Accessed: 20 October 2014).

'Provocative but never explicit image of an attractive woman created specifically for public display in a male environment.'

 -Dian Hanson
(Frank, 2014)

Pin up are mass produced images of women either glamour models, fashion models or actresses that are designed to be 'pined up' and appeal to a wide group of people although mainly men. Pin up images are either drawings, paintings or illustrations. The popularity of the Pin Up rose during World War 2 and its main role was used for military inspiration. Alberto Vargas a pin up painter who worked for Esquire magazine for 5 years between 1942 and 1946 featured a magazine that sent 9 million copies with no advertisements to american troops during this period. These magazines pin up girls were seen as patriots for good luck.

     The Vargas Girls

vargas girls

The pin up images are idealised images of women that are sexual without being graphic, the first pin up girls challenged the conventions of a woman's place and potential in the public sphere it created the female celebrity such as Betty Grable a actress, singing and dancer in the 40's and 50's. This created ideals and versions of what was thought and seen to be attractive or beautiful. 

Feminism rose around the idea of the pin up although some supported it thinking it as positive after the victorian rejection of bodily shame while others thought it was corrupting social morality and saw the images as sexual displays lowering standers of womanhood.

Betty Grable
Betty Grable Photos & Posters (no date). Betty Grable Photos & Posters - Filmbug. Available at: http://www.filmbug.com/db/676-4 (Accessed: 20 October 2014).

Artists that worked around the 40's and 50's creating pin up art are featured below exploring the celebration of female identity.

'Her sexiness is natural and uncontrived, and her exposure is always accidental'

-Dian Hanson
(Frank, 2014)

Joyce Ballantyne 1954.

Enoch Bolles.

References: 

Frank, P. (2014) ‘The Glamorous History Of Pin-Up Like You’ve Never Seen It Before’, Post, T. H. (ed.) Huffington Post. The Glamorous History Of Pin-Up Like You’ve Never Seen It Before. Available at: http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2014/10/06/the-art-of-pin-up_n_5924236.html (Accessed: 10 October 2014).

‘Pin-up girl’ (2014) Wikipedia. Wikipedia. Available at: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pin-up_girl (Accessed: 10 October 2014).

Forbidden (no date). 403 Forbidden. Available at: http://designspiration.net/image/1177459764949/ (Accessed: 20 October 2014).

The real life pin up's of the 1940's & 1950's, The sex symbols of hollywood.

Jane Russell an American film actress during the 40's and 50's and was one of hollywood's biggest sex symbols her pin up images became very popular with service men in the world war 2.

(no date d). 53deluxe. Available at: http://www.53deluxe.com/everything-else/3471/legendary-gi-pin-up-jane-russell-dies-at-89/ (Accessed: 20 October 2014).

Marilyn Monroe a sex symbol still extremely popular today she was an american actress, singer and model and stared in many very successful motion pictures.

Charlotte Olympia (no date). Marilyn Monroe. Available at: http://www.vogue.co.uk/spy/15th-anniversary/charlotte-olympia/marilyn-monroe (Accessed: 20 October 2014).

'All i had was blonde hair and a body men liked.'

-Marilyn Monroe 

‘Marilyn Monroe’ (2014) Wikipedia. Wikipedia. Available at: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Marilyn_Monroe (Accessed: 20 October 2014).

Re:Edit Hair & beauty magazine by Regis Salon (no date). Marilyn Monroe; icon. Available at: http://www.regissalons.co.uk/blog/other/marilyn-monroe-icon (Accessed: 20 October 2014).

Jayne Mansfield was an American actress in the 50's  in film, theatre, and television. She was also a nightclub entertainer, a singer, and one of the early Playboy Playmates.

'A 41 inch bust and a lot of perseverance will get you more than a cup 

of coffee, a lot more.'

- Jayne Mansfield 
Mademoiselle Monday: Mlle Mansfield (no date). Leave a Reply Cancel reply. Available at: http://mylittleboudoir.com/2010/09/20/mademoiselle-monday-mlle-mansfield/ (Accessed: 20 October 2014).

Jayne Mansfield - Pin Up. She is a timeless beauty. It’s sad that in today's society, she would be considered too overweight to model. (no date). Classic Hollywood’s Divas. Available at: http://www.pinterest.com/pin/325033298079431410/ (Accessed: 20 October 2014).

Mademoiselle Monday: Mlle Mansfield (no date). Leave a Reply Cancel reply. Available at: http://mylittleboudoir.com/2010/09/20/mademoiselle-monday-mlle-mansfield/ (Accessed: 20 October 2014).

Bettie Page American model who became famous in the 1950s for her pin-up photos. Often referred to as the "Queen of Pinups", her jet black hair, blue eyes, and trademark bangs have influenced artists for generations.

JBR Clothing (no date). The Bettie Page Revolution. Available at: http://jbrvintagerevolution.wordpress.com/2011/11/03/the-bettie-page-revolution/ (Accessed: 20 October 2014).

All these famous pin up models have one thing in common there idolised beauty and body shapes were worshiped by men and because of this women worshiped these idols taking inspiration from them creating the idea of the celebrity. This is still happening in our world today women and men idolise celebrities as they are a picture of supposed perfection. 
In relation to the hair of the pin up models a lot of the styles stem from the 1940's and 50's tradional and popular styles of the time, although the pin up model always pictures that perfectly done hair each curls and wave is perfectly in place and looks effortless. I would further like to explore the ideas of the pin up girl's appearance using there cultural ideas and the way they are presented in modern and 1950's society to create my design. 

References:
Collie, A. J. (2014) ‘From Bettie Page to Dita Von Teese and Katy Perry,  Pin-up Rules again from Onstage to Tattoo Parlors’, Post, T. H. (ed.)Huffington Post. From Bettie Page to Dita Von Teese and Katy Perry, Pin-up Rules again from Onstage to Tattoo Parlors. Available at: http://www.huffingtonpost.com/ashley-jude-collie/from-bettie-page-to-dita-_b_5949622.html (Accessed: 20 October 2014).

Buszek, M. E. (no date) ‘Pin-Up Grrrls: Feminism, Sexuality, Popular Culture’, academia.edu. Pin-Up Grrrls: Feminism, Sexuality, Popular Culture. Available at: http://www.academia.edu/4248652/Pin-Up_Grrrls_Feminism_Sexuality_Popular_Culture (Accessed: 20 October 2014).