Process creating Moderate Design

I wanted the colour to be a maroon deep purple tone as shown in the images collect from my pintrest board, i was initially thinking red a colour associated with lust, love and romance words relating to the pin up culture but i thought against the black wig this colour would look to harsh in comparison. This lead me to looking at more purple tones a colour that contrasted well with the black wig and also that represents change or something is going to change this works well with my concept a change of a the new ideals of the Pin Up girl. 

When using the hair pastels i wet the hair and mixed together purple red and pink this was because the purple tone was to bright and i wanted a softer effect, i felt the colour turned out slightly more purple than i wanted but against the black wig works well in contrasting. 

Johns, M. (no date b) Pintrest. Available at: http://uk.pinterest.com/milliejohns/pin-up/ (Accessed: 2 December 2014).

When creating the style i set the style 3 days previous to styling the design, i found my set had worked really well and was pleased with the out come. I began by barrel curling the sections of hair at the top and interwinding the lace, i really wanted this to be incorporated into the hair learning from last time the texture and effect the hair lace had floating on top looking like a fascinator.
I created the page boy tuck using padding made from crepe hair this was light enough to stop the padding weighting the hair down i pined this in place using a hair net to hold the shape previous to the shoot.
I feel confident about this shoot and i feel having the time previous to the preparation time before the shoot has given me much more time to prep the style to how i want it rather than last time doing it on the day i felt i didn't have enough time to change the design to how i would have liked it.

Moderate Hair Charts & Instructions

Sections & Preparation: 

Step 1: Section around 2 inches of the models own hair and clip out of the way. 

Step 2: the rest of the hair french plait into a plait curving around in a circle to the centre point of the models head. Apply wig cap and pin securely. 

Setting & Rollers: 

The wig- 3 days previous to styling to leave time to set. 

Step 1: Steam the wig into a straight style. 

Step 2: Apply rollers into the bottom section of the hair, rolling underneath towards the head. 

Step 3: at the front roller backwards at each side and on the top apply rollers from left to right again rolling under towards the head. 

Models Hair.

Step 1: apply rollers at the top section left right under towards the head and at each side in towards the head. 

Hair Style: 
Wig-
Step 1: brushing out the roller style section the hair from the top of the ear backwards and from the end of each brow these sections will be slightly backcombed and pulled tight pinning into place at the back.
Step 2: create rolls at the front of the wig shown on chart manipulating and pinning into place.
Step 3: brush all the hair around your hand creating a barrel curl shape using matted hair as padding pin securely making sure the style is higher at the front than the back. Apply hair lace pinning at each end and manipulating it to hover slightly above the shape.

Models hair-
Step 1: After applying the wig securely creating anchor point with the wig, backcomb the models hair underneath each roll and blend the hair into the rolls and again onto the side of the style. If hair needs to be blended more use hair chalks.

Extreme Final Shoot

I feel that my final shoot followed and was in keeping with my design and development process; within putting together all the elements i felt that they blended together well. I was a little disappointed with the positioning of the hair lace covering i would have liked it to float above the shape of the rolls this way more of the flower pin curls would be visible although this couldn't be achieved with the materials and time i had. If i were to do this again i would have made the structure very hard out of a gel or glue? Although this could make the hair lace look thick or i would have attached thin translucent bits of string and held this up when the images were being taken. I further feel that the parting of the models hair is very obvious this could have been brushed over a little, and the rolls a lot bigger, i imagine the whole design if i were to re do to be much bigger and for all the elements to flow into one another. Although i feel what i had to work with i did the best i could i feel these images portray the provocative, timeless female that i wanted and I'm excited for the next shoot. For this i want to pre make the wig and just be able to put it on as having more time i can get everything to look how i would like it.

Makeup & Styling Extreme

For the styling and makeup for the shoot i have decided i wanted to keep it very classic to the traditional pin up images i feel that although some of the images are from the 40's they are timeless women still chose to look like this is every day life i have collected some images from pintrest to explore my ideas. As this shoot is exploring my concept of a women modern day but timeless pin up girl thats on a photo-shoot i want the styling to be sexy but elegant.

For the makeup look i want a very strong brow slightly messy, flicked eye liner into a smokey eye and a very glossy red lip. This red colour will further contrast with the blue hair lace in my design. 

Johns, M. (no date a) Pin Up Shoot Styling & Makeup. Pin Up Shoot Styling & Makeup. Available at: http://uk.pinterest.com/milliejohns/pin-up-shoot-styling-makeup/ (Accessed: 2 December 2014).

I will look through my model clothing to find something that is suitable although for this shoot i want the model to be in her underwear considering the styling for the others as i want variation.

Johns, M. (no date a) Pin Up Shoot Styling & Makeup. Pin Up Shoot Styling & Makeup. Available at: http://uk.pinterest.com/milliejohns/pin-up-shoot-styling-makeup/ (Accessed: 2 December 2014).

Experimentation Extreme

I wanted to experiment with the hair pastels, hair lace and lace roses. How this would work and the effectiveness of the product and technique to be used on shoot day.

I chose the colour bluey/green to use within this design as considering the colour of my wig (very dark brown) i didn't want the colours to clash, originally i had pictured pink but i feel that this colour with the wig colour would have looked tacky and i wanted the style to look elegant. I further feel pink is too obvious a colour associated with females and femininity i wanted to portray that aspect through other elements such as the hair lace and roses. I have looked at colours on my Pintrest board below for colour inspiration.

Johns, M. (no date b) Pintrest. Available at: http://uk.pinterest.com/milliejohns/pin-up/ (Accessed: 2 December 2014).

My original idea what to use the hair lace for the roses after experimenting with the hair lace and manipulating it into a rose shape i felt that the shape was quite high and messy. I fell that underneath the layer of hair lace over the structure it will make the overall structure look messy and not clear. I then  just experimented with the pastel hair pin curling straight this worked a lot better! I feel this will look more effective underneath the hair lace and was a much easier way to secure into the rolls.

 To create the pin curl roses i will pre make them rolling the hair and sewing it tightly then sewing a thin much smaller pin that pictures on to the rose shape. This will then be very easy to pin into the rolls after covering them with my models own hair.

The colour of the pin curl roses i further wanted to explore previous to exploring the texture of the hair lace as roses i had pre dyed the hair as i was planning on incorporating the colours together to add depth. As the hair rose are using straight hair i didn't want the colours to look separate to i looked at mixing the colours i like this effect, i will make a mixture of mixed pin curls using green and blue and singular pin curls using only blue. 

I further created my hair lace covering, after dying the hair i back combed in sections then manipulated the hair to sit exactly how i wanted it after hair spraying throughly i ironed the hair (extensions are real human hair) I love the effect of this, i love the fading out of the colour through the shape although i had planned to clip the end of the strip at the back of the last roll i feel the shape of the hair lace works best on the side. I will talk to Lottie tomorrow to figure out how i could secure this hiding the strip and allowing the cover to sit on top of the structure while leaving a gap.

I have further decided that i will also pre make the rolls sewing extensions onto a prop and creating a pin curl shape at each end to cover the prop. I will then use the models hair to blend in.

Extreme Hair Charts & Instructions

Setting With rollers (3 days before prep for wig):

Step 1: Put in rollers, from the right hand side of the wig to the left vertically across the whole wig. Steam and leave to dry before taking out rollers. This should give a curl to then create the french pleat with.

Step 2: Roller Extensions also for the 2 rolls at the front and create padding, also create hair lace & roses to apply. 

Step 3: Using tongs curl and set the models hair in the direction shown within the charts below. 

 Sections & Preparation (With models hair & Wig):

Step 1: Section from the end to the arch of the models eye brow on the left hand side back to just before the crown across and down to past the eye of the brow on the other side. The section should be enough to fit 2 large rolls.

Step 2: split this first section in half diagonally across the section at the start of each section apply Extension rolls.

Step 3: Section in a circle from the top of the crown around the circumference of the head, pull the hair around this out of the way. The hair within this circle pin curl tight to the head cross gripping every pin curl. Apply Wig cap to this section and secure with pins all the way around.

Final Overall style: 

Step 1: Apply the wig tucking in the fringe to the back section, secure with the correct pins vertically across the side of the wig. 

Step 2: Taking the models hair and the wig brush together pulling tight and flat to the head cross grip in the middle of the head the whole way up the back. Taking the rest of the hair from the right brush together and manipulate the curls to sit around your hand, twist into the head making sure the bottom of the french pleat is tight against the head and pin using bobbie pins, twist around the top of the section to create a twist like shape. 

Step 3: Taking the first section french plait half this section and secure on the pre made padded hair roll, using the rest of the section from the models own hair back comb underneath and place over the hair piece pinning underneath. Repeat this for the other roll. (make sure the rolls sit diagonally across the head and cover the ends so the padding dosent show.)

Step 4: Pin in the lace lace flowers over each roll and at the back of the last roll clip in the hair lace extensions tucking under to hide the strip end. manipulate to side above each roll and pin under the front roll.

Step 5: Hair spray lightly making sure the sides are tight to the head. 

Magazine Fashion Editorials

As these final stylised images are aimed towards featuring in an avant- garde theme fashion editorial i wanted to explore fashion magazines looking at the editorial images and what makes these images fashion based and how they take a theme and create something editorial directed to a fashion audience.

i-D 
Launched in 1980, i-D has built a reputation for being a consistent source of inspiration for all involved in fashion culture.

-(no date h). i-D. Available at: http://i-d.vice.com/en_gb (Accessed: 3 November 2014).

Cara Delevingne by Richard Bush for i-D Magazine Winter 2013 (no date). Cara Delevingne by Richard Bush for i-D Magazine Winter 2013 | The Fashionography. Available at: http://thefashionography.com/cara-delevingne-richard-bush-for-id-magazine-2013/ (Accessed: 22 November 2014).

This front cover is clearly inspired by The Elizabethan era, using the makeup and styling this can show us were the original inspiration came from allowing the hair stylist to be more free with the hair texture such as this afro texture changing this creates a more modern feel to the image.

CHENMAN (no date). PHOTOGRAPHY #1. Available at: http://creativec.com.cn/photography/chenman (Accessed: 30 November 2014).

Inspired by Chinese culture the designer has taken traditional hair shapes changing either the position of the fringe or changing the texture to this wet shiny look creates something new. Referencing the makeup colour in with the hair is further very effective. 

Elvis Presley’s Grandchild Covers i-D Magazine’s Pre-Fall Issue (no date). Elvis Presley’s Grandchild Covers i-D Magazine's Pre-Fall Issue. Available at: http://www.designscene.net/2011/08/elvis-presleys-grandchild-id.html (Accessed: 30 November 2014).

This cover is clear influenced from Pin Up culture the large red lips and provocative pose suggests this culture although the hair is kept messy to give that effortless modern feel. 

Dazed & Confused 

Founded in 1992, its a monthly British style magazine. 

http://jezzicascloset.wordpress.com/category/dazed-and-confused/

 This image used oversize traditional Indian jewellery piece within the shoot, this allows the audience to reference the inspiration but keeping the rest of the look very modern and simple with a high cut fringe and choppy style creates a modern, current and interesting image. 

http://tuhinternational.com/2012/07/10/a-scanner-darkly-for-dazed-confused-magazine-june-2012-issue/

When i looked at this image i instantly thought of Pop Art a movement that inspired many creatives, although the makeup references this the hair moves the look into something very different and exciting creating this bold definite shape makes the image interesting as a fashion images rather than a copy from a very well known art movement. 

http://24-7kpop.com/lee-hyori-wears-indian-face-paint-for-dazed-confused-magazine/

Native American theme the look is very obvious, this image i found interesting as the position and facial expression gives the image something more, the attitude from this pose is strong and very suiting to the culture. 

LOVE  

http://www.designscene.net/2011/08/kristen-mcmenamy-love-magazine.html

This to me is reminiscent of Gothic horror, ghostly reference with the long white hair and very plain styling and makeup this brings the hair to the forefront of the image adding the candle accessory moves the image creatively in another direction. 

http://www.designscene.net/2010/07/rosie-huntington-whiteley-for-love.html

Again inspired by Pin Up culture the image of Rosie a very well known model has a sex appeal changing the hair colour of the model that every one knows to be blonde was an instructing point for me. All most creating a character for her within the image. 

http://uk.eonline.com/news/494560/miley-cyrus-rocks-a-pink-mohawk-on-love-magazine-cover

The styling is very important this shows us the reference of the inspiration of tutor, Elizabethan era using the ruffle neck line as a key point of the composition adding a mohawk style twists this idea of Elizabethans and makes the image contemporary along with the bring pop of colour in the back ground. 

Having looked a just a few magazines and looking for references to era's, cultures or movements in general i have been able to explore how stylist, makeup artists and most importantly hair designers can change adapt or distort an element, this in term moving the historical element into a contemporary context suited for a fashion editorial shoot. Many of the images change a specific element and make it interesting something we look at and question, laugh at, are shocked by or love this creates interest within the image, i would like to keep this in mind when developing my images remembering the context they are being created for. 

Development of Extreme Hair style

I have develop this style after feedback from the class presentation that the previous deign was very harsh and looked more victorian than the Feminine elements to the pin up inspired deigns i had done previously. I didn't want to change my design to much as i liked all the elements i had incorporated, although i did agree the overall shape needed to change to create the feminine touch my other two designs have. I began to look and play around with the positioning of the Rolls experimenting i found that moving the roll onto the side created a much softer look. During this process i also had to consider the design was being created for a wig so many of my other ideas wouldn't have worked with the wig  as well. The design below i feel incorporates the elements i had previously such as the lace hair roses, overlay and hair up style but moving the rolls i feel adds the feminine elements back into the style.

Presentation feedback

My designs were very well thought out combined both the elements from my culture and i had a well developed idea about who my pin up girl was this conveyed within the designs, the exaggerated structure was effective.

Points that i needed to develop further and experiment with were:

• Development of the extreme style, looked to sharp and strong dosent look feminine compared to the other styles, it looked very victorian, harsh- need to develop this idea liked the elements but need to play with this to blend more flowing from the moderate witch was very well done. 
• Colour of Hair lace, electric green colour? play with this see what works with the style and with the wig. 
• Idea- Bondage tape a modern material could look effective with the hair lace?

I found this helpful as it allowed me to see were my designs were going and what designs needed developing further. I feel that now having looked at my extreme style i can see that the femininity is lost not through the elements but through the overall shape. I want to experiment with this to create a designs that combines the elements and flows within the other two styles i have already created. I further need to experiment further with colours of hair lace. 

Designs Simple/Moderate/Extreme

I have created 3 designs using this ideas i had about whom the Pin up Girl is to me in these shoots and given each one a story so i had more inspiration when designing for the style. I used influence from original pin up illistrations when looking at classic pin up hair styles while interpreting these into a design that i felt combined my research and development i have used the hair lace in all three designs to pull them together although the colours within the images show brown hair and white lace i have yet decided the colour choice for these. 

I have exaggerated all the styles as i want them to look powerful and intimidating many of the Pin Up images created an ideal to what women should look like as well as celebrating the female form. I want the exaggerated styles to look very perfect and combined both femininity and a sexuality. 

Simple 

This style i took a very simple hair style the wave pictured in many pin up illustration i used this as i feel for the simple look i wanted her to look like she is at home in her room relaxed in the sexy hair style but exaggerated it to still look powerful. I want the hair to be very clean cut and defined. I want to combine the hair lace in with the style sitting above the hair blending within the waves.

Moderate 

This design was inspired from a classic style used by many Pin Up illustrations and models the page boy style, i wanted the style to look very exaggerated and strong so i want this style to be very large. At the top i have created barrel curls that will be covered by the hair lace again the places the hair lace is shown the lace will sit above the hair leaving a gap. 

Extreme 

This design was created was inspired from one of the original Pin Up models Bettie Grable within the film 'The Pin Up Girl' 1944 the intricacy of the style i felt i could use within my extreme style not only showing the femininity within the hair but something thats strong and admiring. I wanted this style to be powerful to symbolise the movement within the Pin Up culture that changed the expectation of women within society. I have created two large barrel curls that will be covered in pin curl roses made from the hair lace, i further wanted to add a covering combining the ideas of provocative nature of the culture i want this to sit above the hair hovering over the style to create depth.

I would like to experiment to how i will create these styles and develop them according to the creation process. As these designs will be on a wig i further want to experiment using synthetic hair as i will need to take into consideration rollers and using the wig over for some of the styles.